Jan 122017
 

At CrashSpace we have a publicly-viewable “sign” at https://crashspacela.com/sign/ to let members know when the space is open. This sign page is updated by a big button in the front room. Press it, the sign page updates, and you’ve promised to be in the space for an hour.

But last month, the button broke. So I made a new one based on an ESP8266 WiFi module, WS2812/Neopixel LEDs, and a custom PCB fabbed on an Othermill. Schematics, PCB & firmware at: github/todbot/crashspace-bigbutton.

See below for:

  • construction details
  • PCB techniques for Othermill
  • “sacrificial Neopixels” for 3v3 to 5V level conversion

 

Some history

The first version of the BigButton I did back in 2010 consisted of an Arduino in a taplight tethered to a netbook running a Perl script. Last year it was upgraded by a member to a Spark.io SparkButton (early version of the Particle Photon Internet Button kit but not using the better chip of the Photon) with a custom 3d-printed case. That upgrade resulted in a much simpler and smaller Button than my original. It was great. But occasionally it would drop its connection and need a reboot. Then a month or so ago it just stopped working entirely. I ended up recreating the functionality with a Photon but found the environment limiting, particularly the near-requirement of an online compiler.

The New BigButton

For the new BigButton I went with the Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266 WiFi board. This is essentially a tiny version of the standard NodeMCU board that contains a USB-to-serial interface and the necessary support circuitry to control and reprogram the ESP8266 module. It’s easy-to-use, stable, and great. Instead of programming it directly, I figured I’d try the ESP8266 Arduino core and write an Arduino sketch.

The sketch uses the wonderful ArduinoJson library. It’s pretty memory efficient and uses clever C++ operator-overloading to let you write JSON parsing code like this:

// jsonstr = '{"is_open":false,"minutes_left":-920.45,"button_presses":[]}'
JsonObject& root = jsonBuffer.parseObject(jsonstr);
bool is_open = root["is_open"];
double minutes_left = root["minutes_left"];

Custom PCB Carrier Board

The first BigButton used flexible LED strip hot glued into a repurposed tap light. That worked but I wanted an excuse to do another Othermill-based PCB, so I created a carrier board that had 12 WS2812 LEDs and a socket for the D1 Mini board. There are breakouts for testing the WS2812s and the button inputs. It also has footprints for buttons and mounting holes for either standoffs or guide rails.

Otherwise the schematic is pretty straightforward.

Sacrificial Neopixels: Converting ESP8266 output for WS2812  LEDs

One interesting thing about the schematic how the ESP8266 (a 3v3 device) manages to control 5V WS2812/Neopixel LEDs. Some WS2812s can be driven by 3v3 logic HIGH, but it’s iffy. The standard solution is a level-shifter buffer to convert 3v3 HIGH to 5V HIGH.

The technique used on the BigButton board, however, is to create a “sacrificial” LED powered not by 5V directly but via a stepped-down voltage from a standard signal diode (with its 0.7V voltage drop). This creates an approximately 4.3V power source that is high enough to drive the LED but brings its concept of logic HIGH (>70% of Vcc) down to what a 3v3 device will output. Basically, we’re building a fakey intermediary power supply for a single LED. The rest of the WS2812 LEDs are driven by 5V.

Here’s a diagram perhaps making the idea more clear:

 

Othermill design considerations

I wanted the PCB to be millable on an Othermill, so that meant modifying my standard PCB design techniques. There are a few reasons for this. For instance, since this board has no soldermask, I want to maximize spacing between copper traces to avoid solder bridges. Also, I want to minimize the use of endmills smaller than 1/32″ because they are fragile and take a long time to mill.

Thus, the techniques I use are:

  • Increase trace width 16 mil (0.016″)
  • Add ground plane, set its Polygon->Isolate value to 32 mil (0.032″)
  • Single-sided only design (or minimize back-side traces)
  • Space components out to enable easy soldering

The result is below. The Wemos D1 Mini board is mounted on the backside of the board so it doesn’t affect light output.

For the enclosure I reused the original 2010 BigButton taplight enclosure because its diffuser is really pretty good.  Plus my Fusion360 skills weren’t up to making a custom 3D printed enclosure.
The PCB is mounted on standoffs that are then screwed into the modified taplight. The taplight’s switch is reused as the button input.

 

The final result is flashed with WiFi credentials, wired for power, and installed on the wall.

CrashSpace BigButton w/ ESP8266, WS2812/Neopixel, using Othermill

 

 Posted by at 11:40 am
Oct 232015
 

Thanks to NextThingCo‘s recent efforts with getting Debian on their nifty little C.H.I.P. board, I was able to quickly get working my blink1-tool for our blink(1) USB LED. Let the blinky disco commence!

Mostly as a reminder to myself, here’s what I did.  (based on the “Flashing with Debian” section of this document)

On the vagrant ubuntu VM, update the CHIP tools and flash the CHIP board (be sure to have the FEL-to-GND jumper in place when flashing, and remove it after):

$ sudo apt-get update
$ sudo apt-get install u-boot-tools android-tools-fastboot git build-essential libusb-1.0-0-dev
$ rm -rf ~/sunxi-tools/
$ git clone http://github.com/NextThingCo/sunxi-tools
$ make
$ sudo rm -rf /usr/local/bin/fel
$ sudo ln -s $PWD/fel /usr/local/bin/fel
$ cd ~/CHIP-tools/
$ git pull
$ ./chip-firmware-update.sh -d
$ cu -l /dev/ttyACM0 -s 115200

Once the flashing is done, remove the FEL jumper and power cycle the board.  When it comes up, connect to it via ‘cu’ (the last command above), get it on the net, get the compiler tools, then download and compile blink1-tool.  No changes to blink1-tool Makefile needed. Easy!

# nmcli device wifi connect todbot ifname wlan0
# apt-get install build-essential pkg-config git 
# apt-get usbutils libusb-1.0-0-dev

# git clone https://github.com/todbot/blink1
# cd blink1/commandline/
# make

# ./blink1-tool --list
# ./blink1-tool --random=1000 -m 10 -t 20 -l 2
 Posted by at 1:29 pm
Oct 102015
 

blink1-chip-almost

My blink1-tool command-line program is very cross-platform. It currently supports Mac OS X 10.6.8-10.10.6, Windows XP-10, FreeBSD 10+,  most Linux distros including Ubuntu, RedHat, OpenWrt, Raspberry Pi, BeagleBone, and Linino Arduino Yun.  And I want it to work for C.H.I.P.

The NextThingCo C.H.I.P. runs a tiny Linux similar to OpenWrt or Arduino Yun.  For these systems, you don’t compile on the device itself but instead “cross-compile”: run a compiler on a computer that generates binaries for the target system.  If you’ve ever played with Arduino, you’re invoking the avr-gcc cross-compiler for the AVR chip on the Arduino board.

Setting up cross-compile with “buildroot” setups

In these small Linuxes, you use a system of Makefiles and cross-compiler suite called buildroot to build your kernel, select kernel features, and choose libraries and programs to build into your disk image. With C.H.I.P., NextThingCo has made things easy by creating  a pre-setup CHIP-buildroot and good instructions on how to get a tailored VM to run it.

Generally to compile your own program, you want to create a package for use by buildroot.  I find this a bit weighty, so I just create a section of my existing Makefile for new systems like CHIP.

The two things you need to know when doing it this way:

  • Path of cross-compiler (CC) and linker  (LD)
  • Path of any cross-compiled libraries your program needs (CFLAGS & LIBS)

Once I get the cross-compile system built with the libraries I need, I set up a Makefile sort of like this:

CCBASEDIR=/home/vagrant/CHIP-buildroot/output/host
TARGET_DIR=$(CCBASEDIR)/usr/arm-buildroot-linux-gnueabihf/sysroot

CC = $(CCBASEDIR)/usr/bin/arm-linux-gnueabihf-gcc
LD = $(CCBASEDIR)/usr/bin/arm-linux-gnueabihf-ld

CFLAGS += -I$(TARGET_DIR)/usr/include/libusb-1.0
LIBS += -L$(TARGET_DIR)/usr/lib -lusb-1.0

The above is showing what I discovered for CHIP-buildroot running inside the vagrant VM they’ve defined.  For a simple hello world program that talks libusb, the above’s all you need.  Here’s some additional discussion on simple cross-compiling for CHIP.

CHIP buildroot configuration

Unfortunately, CHIP’s firmware is currently highly pared down, so to get libusb I went to the buildroot config and added “libusb” as a package to build.

% cd CHIP-SDK
% vagrant up && vagrant ssh 
$ cd CHIP-buildroot 
$ make chip_defconfig 
$ make menuconfig

In menuconfig (pictured below), make the changes:

  • Build options -> libraries (both static and shared) -> both static & shared
  • Target packages -> Libraries -> Hardware handling -> libusb
$ make toolchain
$ make libusb  
$ make    # optional,builds new firmware & selected packages, ~60 mins

Screen Shot 2015-10-10 at 4.03.29p

The results, sigh, *this close!*

At this point I could hack up the blink1-tool Makefile and start compiling. And… It worked! It compiled! I excitedly ‘scp’d the resulting binary to my CHIP, and blink1-tool --help and… It printed!

But when I tried scanning for USB devices, it came up empty. I’ve had this problem before where a Linux libusb-based program compiles and runs but libusb can’t see any devices. Generally recompiling with the “right” libusb solves the problem, but I’m not sure what that means here.

Time to go back to a simple libusb “hello world” with maximum error checking turned on and see what’s what.

 Posted by at 10:07 pm
Oct 092015
 

IMG_6130

I recently received part of my Kickstarter reward from the famous C.H.I.P. $9 computer project.  This is the “Alpha C.H.I.P.” board that is hardware complete, but has no firmware.  So you need to install the SDK and flash the firmware yourself.  If you’re a kernel hacker (like me, I’ve been poking on Linux internals since ’98 and OpenWrt since ’06), this is pretty great. It gives one a chance to see the build process for an interesting tiny Linux system.

The steps to get C.H.I.P. up and on WiFi and accessible via ssh were very straightforward, very non-frustrating, and spelled out in the following links:

Each of those stages is pretty straight forward.  In short, these are the steps in each stage (where ‘%’ means my Mac, ‘$’ means the vagrant linux VM, and ‘#’ means CHIP command lines):

1. Install CHIP SDK

  • Install Virtual Box & Oracle Extension Pack
  • Install vagrant
  • % vagrant up && vagrant ssh
  • $ ./CHIP-SDK/setup_ubuntu1404.sh

2. Flash CHIP from CHIP SDK

  • Put jumper wire between FEL & GND pins on CHIP
  • Plug CHIP into computer’s USB
  • % cd CHIP-SDK
  • % vagrant up && vagrant ssh
  • $ cd CHIP-tools && ./chip-update-firmware.sh
  • $ cu -l /dev/ttyACM0 -s 115200
  • # hwtest
  • # exit
  • % vagrant halt

3. Get CHIP on WiFi

  • % sudo cu -l /dev/usbmodem14141 -s 115200
  • # connmanctl enable wifi
  • # connmanctl scan wifi
  • # connmanctl connect wifi_….

Here’s a complete log of everything I did, showing output for those interested: http://pastebin.com/w5pDhHAe

And here’s a pic of the FEL to GND connection needed to reflash the firmware:

IMG_6133

 

Note: you should have some familiarity with “vagrant” and Linux command lines if things go wrong.  If you do have a problem, just try deleting VirtualBox, vagrant, and the CHIP-SDK checkout and starting from scratch.  (I had an old VirtualBox and vagrant install that caused some issues initially)

 

 Posted by at 1:41 pm
Sep 232015
 

Atmel AVR portable dev kit

Recently a CrashSpace member asked about my little portable AVR dev platform. It’s small, compatible without avrdude hacks, and cheap enough to not worry about. Though it’s a gaffer-taped together setup, it’s served me well for about 10 years.  It’s in a go-bag about the size of my laptop’s power supply, so it’s often with me.  But people do sometimes look at me strangely when I whip this out at coffee shops. (but then I blink LEDs and all is forgiven)

The kit consists of:

  • AVRISP mkII programmer (w/ custom +5V switch on VTG (power to target))
  • USB hub, travel size 4-port
  • USB extension cable, 1 foot
  • Generic 3.3V/5V USB-to-serial adapter
  • Enough gaffers tape to bodge it all together

Just plug it all together and go.  The AVR ISP mkII is an official one from Atmel and is about $30. It looks like it may not be made any more, but there are many clones out there. The nice thing about the official one is that it works at 5V & 3V and has short-circuit protection.  I do wish the ISP protocol was faster though.  Compared to bootloaders, it’s around 5x slower. That adds up.

AVR Programmer VTG power

The VTG +5V switch add-on is super useful.  Normally ISP programmers don’t supply power to the target. (and shouldn’t, you don’t have to have a power supply fight)  But when doing exploratory development, having the programmer providing the power is really handy.  if you don’t want to mod your programmer, you could take an old USB cable, cut it up and run the +5V to your board.  If I were to do it again, I’d add some sort of current-limiting for those just-in-case oopses.

USB-to-serial

You don’t always need a serial port but when you do, you really do.  I usually keep this plugged in just in case, sort of like how I always keep a few LEDs & 1k resistors on hand.  Both are great for on-the-go debugging.

Programming adapter cables

For working with the strange, small boards I make, I have a collection adapters made from male-to-{male,female} jumpers that go from the AVRISP 6-pin connector to whatever I’m working on:

Atmel AVR portable dev kit

 

And when I work on PIC USB projects, I have a similar one for PIC.

 

 Posted by at 4:53 pm
Sep 272014
 

After two years, I think I have my Replicator (apparently the first one shipped) finally working reliably to produce >1 hour prints. Thank you @iandanforth for asking if I had a description of the mods I did and prompting me to write this.

The Replicator has been a very frustrating product. After a few out-of-the-box failures, it worked great for the first week and then rapidly deteriorated. And a few months later, the Replicator 2 was announced and support for my product rapidly evaporated. Many of the things I print are small and take <15 minutes to print, so I’ve been dealing with a <30% success rate of printing, or using other 3d printers. But I think I’ve been slowly iterating towards a reliable Replicator.

Things I have done thus far (in roughly chronological order):
* Replaced heated build plate since the original was very non-flat
* Replaced both thermocouples with parts from Makerbot
* Installed new extruder design (eliminates all filament feed issues)
* Installed Bottleworks aluminum replacement arms
* Went to three-point bed leveling by removing one of the four leveling nuts.

The heated build platform and thermocouple issues were just bad original parts from Makerbot. I still sometimes have issues with “Heating Failure #3 my extruders are losing temperature. Check my connections.” on the right extruder, but I think that’s because of either a small crack in the replacement thermocouple or it just coming loose. I’m strongly considering using this Wanhao Duplicator replacement thermocouple if the problem comes up again. At least they terminate the thermocouple with a lug instead of trusting the assembler won’t crack it when tightening.

Assuming the basic mechatronics of the printer work, the most critical fix is the new extruder design. If you’ve ever experienced your Replicator stopping extruding or only partially extruding, it’s because the original mechanism to push the filament against the extruder motor sucked. This change was so important that Makerbot themselves retrofitted all Replicator 2s with it.

MinimalMk8_preview_featured

The next most critical mod is replacing those stupid plastic cantilever arms with something sturdier. Even at room temp, those arms exhibited considerable flex. Heat up the bed and the build plate would droop a few layers, causing so. many. failed prints. With the Bottleworks Aluminum arms, the bed is now rock solid.

bc-tech-elements-09

I’ve also printed some little helper parts like extruder fan guards and leveling knob covers

Here’s some lists of other popular upgrades:
– Makerbot Users list – “Popular non-printed upgrades”
– EEWeb Gary’s blog – “Makerbot Replicator upgrades

In general, be sure to poke around the Makerbot Users mailing list. It’s got useful tips and very knowledgable people.

From that and the (now discontinued) Makerbot Operators list, I’m just waiting for the day when the entire Replicator motherboard fries itself (another story, there are many) due to bad voltage regulator design. When that happens, not sure what I’ll do.

On the one hand, maybe get a steel Duplicator 4S, maybe a Lulzbot Taz 4 modded for 1.75mm filament, or maybe support the local guys and get a Bukobot.

 Posted by at 2:32 pm