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	<title>Comments on: Smart LED Prototypes</title>
	<atom:link href="http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/</link>
	<description>Random experiments, circuits, code, rapid prototyping, sometimes things to buy, and the odd tune by Tod E. Kurt.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 14 Mar 2010 04:13:46 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: The Pint Light! - Page 3</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-58849</link>
		<dc:creator>The Pint Light! - Page 3</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jan 2010 14:00:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-58849</guid>
		<description>[...] pretty easy to do, and cheap:  http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/  If you don&#039;t own an AVR programmer it will be a bit more [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] pretty easy to do, and cheap:  <a href="http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/" rel="nofollow">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/</a>  If you don&#39;t own an AVR programmer it will be a bit more [...]</p>
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		<title>By: todbot</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-58829</link>
		<dc:creator>todbot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 19:54:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-58829</guid>
		<description>Hi techiebot,
Every 8-bit AVR chip is programmable with the AVRISP, with the exception of the weird ones, like maybe the 6-pin ones.  You can definitely program an ATtiny13.

But also, I wouldn&#039;t be so quick to offload sensor reading tasks to an ATtiny if you&#039;re using Arduino.  I would try using just the Arduino first and see how far you can get.  If you find you&#039;re running out of cycles, at least you&#039;ll have some working sensor-reading code that you can pretty quickly port to an ATtiny.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi techiebot,<br />
Every 8-bit AVR chip is programmable with the AVRISP, with the exception of the weird ones, like maybe the 6-pin ones.  You can definitely program an ATtiny13.</p>
<p>But also, I wouldn&#8217;t be so quick to offload sensor reading tasks to an ATtiny if you&#8217;re using Arduino.  I would try using just the Arduino first and see how far you can get.  If you find you&#8217;re running out of cycles, at least you&#8217;ll have some working sensor-reading code that you can pretty quickly port to an ATtiny.</p>
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		<title>By: techiebot</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-58828</link>
		<dc:creator>techiebot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jan 2010 15:20:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-58828</guid>
		<description>Todbot:  I have been building robots for a while now.  I want my current one the have smart sensors (IR sensor, accelerometer, light detector, touch sensors) and the like but I don&#039;t want to use up the Arduino&#039;s processing time looking at them all the time.  Do you think the aTtiny13 would work for sensor input?

Octopart.com shows that there are many flavors of the aTtiny13.  Would any of them work with the AVRISP programmer?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Todbot:  I have been building robots for a while now.  I want my current one the have smart sensors (IR sensor, accelerometer, light detector, touch sensors) and the like but I don&#8217;t want to use up the Arduino&#8217;s processing time looking at them all the time.  Do you think the aTtiny13 would work for sensor input?</p>
<p>Octopart.com shows that there are many flavors of the aTtiny13.  Would any of them work with the AVRISP programmer?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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		<title>By: Sign manufacturer &#8211; Sign Securers, Truck And Car Toppers</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-54643</link>
		<dc:creator>Sign manufacturer &#8211; Sign Securers, Truck And Car Toppers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:18:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-54643</guid>
		<description>[...] Smart LED Prototypes &#8211; LEDs should be smarter. Sure we have flashing LED assemblies and even rudimentary RGB-flashing discrete LEDs. But LEDs themselves are predominately just dumb lights. There’s no real reason for this. Fab processes for microcontrollers &#8230; [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Smart LED Prototypes &#8211; LEDs should be smarter. Sure we have flashing LED assemblies and even rudimentary RGB-flashing discrete LEDs. But LEDs themselves are predominately just dumb lights. There’s no real reason for this. Fab processes for microcontrollers &#8230; [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Rgb led avr</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-53427</link>
		<dc:creator>Rgb led avr</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:39:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-53427</guid>
		<description>[...] todbot blog » Blog Archive » Smart LED Prototypes Electrically, an RGB LED looks like three LEDs. An Atmel AVR ATtiny13 is the microcontroller brain. In this design the ATtiny13 is running at 4.8MHz from &#8230; todbot.com/blog/&#8230;/smart-led-prototypes/ &#8211; [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] todbot blog » Blog Archive » Smart LED Prototypes Electrically, an RGB LED looks like three LEDs. An Atmel AVR ATtiny13 is the microcontroller brain. In this design the ATtiny13 is running at 4.8MHz from &#8230; todbot.com/blog/&#8230;/smart-led-prototypes/ &#8211; [...]</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-50526</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 22:27:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-50526</guid>
		<description>I had more or less the same idea ~4 years ago, and came up with a similar circuit (used Tiny25, though in retrospect I could have gotten away with a Tiny13) for my RGB Christmas tree lights. Each light module has a linear power supply (with 50 feet of wire and wildly-varying loads, voltage drop would have been a major problem otherwise), Tiny25, resistor array (one for green, one for blue, and two in z-shaped series for red), a couple decoupling capacitors, and (of course) the RGB LED.

Take a look at my tree in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5qR9_8KGPU

I know the first 34 seconds aren&#039;t terribly impressive. Stick with it. It gets more exciting when the first chorus starts, and looks really cool at the song&#039;s climax after the bridge as the final chorus starts.

PS if you run into anyone with the means to actually make smart LEDs, let me know... I&#039;ve learned a lot over the past couple of years about what capabilities are really important, and what capabilities seemed like they&#039;d be important, but ended up being irrelevant in real use on the tree ;-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had more or less the same idea ~4 years ago, and came up with a similar circuit (used Tiny25, though in retrospect I could have gotten away with a Tiny13) for my RGB Christmas tree lights. Each light module has a linear power supply (with 50 feet of wire and wildly-varying loads, voltage drop would have been a major problem otherwise), Tiny25, resistor array (one for green, one for blue, and two in z-shaped series for red), a couple decoupling capacitors, and (of course) the RGB LED.</p>
<p>Take a look at my tree in action: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5qR9_8KGPU" rel="nofollow">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5qR9_8KGPU</a></p>
<p>I know the first 34 seconds aren&#8217;t terribly impressive. Stick with it. It gets more exciting when the first chorus starts, and looks really cool at the song&#8217;s climax after the bridge as the final chorus starts.</p>
<p>PS if you run into anyone with the means to actually make smart LEDs, let me know&#8230; I&#8217;ve learned a lot over the past couple of years about what capabilities are really important, and what capabilities seemed like they&#8217;d be important, but ended up being irrelevant in real use on the tree ;-)</p>
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		<title>By: todbot</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-50142</link>
		<dc:creator>todbot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 19:05:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-50142</guid>
		<description>Hi Tim,
The mention of flicker makes me think that the fuses are set incorrectly, and the chip is running at 1/8th speed because the CLKDIV8 fuse is set. The flicker is maddening, right at the frequency to give one seizures it seems. ;)

In the Makefile above you&#039;ll find a target called &quot;erase&quot; that will erase the chip and set the fuses correctly.  So try doing a &quot;make erase&quot; then a &quot;make program&quot; (if you&#039;re using the Makefile), or use whatever tools you have to flip the CLKDIV8 fuse.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Tim,<br />
The mention of flicker makes me think that the fuses are set incorrectly, and the chip is running at 1/8th speed because the CLKDIV8 fuse is set. The flicker is maddening, right at the frequency to give one seizures it seems. ;)</p>
<p>In the Makefile above you&#8217;ll find a target called &#8220;erase&#8221; that will erase the chip and set the fuses correctly.  So try doing a &#8220;make erase&#8221; then a &#8220;make program&#8221; (if you&#8217;re using the Makefile), or use whatever tools you have to flip the CLKDIV8 fuse.</p>
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		<title>By: Tim</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-50141</link>
		<dc:creator>Tim</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:57:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-50141</guid>
		<description>Hi Todbot
I&#039;m also getting a very noticeable flicker that gives you a headache if you look at it for too long.  I&#039;ve used the code that you provided with no modifications, I&#039;m using avrdude with a parallel programmer. any ideas the chip is a attiny13v, thanks for any help you may be able to provide.

Tim</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Todbot<br />
I&#8217;m also getting a very noticeable flicker that gives you a headache if you look at it for too long.  I&#8217;ve used the code that you provided with no modifications, I&#8217;m using avrdude with a parallel programmer. any ideas the chip is a attiny13v, thanks for any help you may be able to provide.</p>
<p>Tim</p>
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		<title>By: Justin Winter</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49831</link>
		<dc:creator>Justin Winter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Aug 2008 16:21:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49831</guid>
		<description>Awesome. thank you. setting the fuse was definitely the problem.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Awesome. thank you. setting the fuse was definitely the problem.</p>
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		<title>By: todbot</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49827</link>
		<dc:creator>todbot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Aug 2008 04:26:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49827</guid>
		<description>Hi Justin,

You probably need to set the CLKDIV8 fuse, which makes the chip operate at 8MHz instead of 1MHz.  To do this with my code &amp; Makefile linked above, do a &quot;make erase&quot; to set the fuses and then &quot;make program&quot; to reprogram the chip.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Justin,</p>
<p>You probably need to set the CLKDIV8 fuse, which makes the chip operate at 8MHz instead of 1MHz.  To do this with my code &#038; Makefile linked above, do a &#8220;make erase&#8221; to set the fuses and then &#8220;make program&#8221; to reprogram the chip.</p>
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		<title>By: Justin Winter</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49826</link>
		<dc:creator>Justin Winter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2008 20:25:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49826</guid>
		<description>Hey Todbot,

Thanks for the great blog posts. I&#039;m getting a really noticeable &quot;flicker&quot; when running the softpwm_t13.c. I&#039;m not using a switch and was just trying to get smooth fading between colors on my common annode RGB LED. Is there anywhere in the code that you could point me to what I might be able to change to make the fading smoother?  

I&#039;m using a 4.5v power supply and everything seems to be working fine expect for the flicker. 

Thanks for any directino</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Todbot,</p>
<p>Thanks for the great blog posts. I&#8217;m getting a really noticeable &#8220;flicker&#8221; when running the softpwm_t13.c. I&#8217;m not using a switch and was just trying to get smooth fading between colors on my common annode RGB LED. Is there anywhere in the code that you could point me to what I might be able to change to make the fading smoother?  </p>
<p>I&#8217;m using a 4.5v power supply and everything seems to be working fine expect for the flicker. </p>
<p>Thanks for any directino</p>
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		<title>By: todbot</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49569</link>
		<dc:creator>todbot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 01:50:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49569</guid>
		<description>Hi piboer,
For the Smart LED prototypes, I got almost all my RGB LEDs from various suppliers on Ebay.  Do a search for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&amp;_trksid=m37&amp;satitle=rgb+led&amp;category0=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rgb led&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and you&#039;ll find tons of different types.  You generally have to buy in quantities of 25 or 50, but that&#039;s still only around $20 total.

If you&#039;re unsure what kind of RGB LEDs to get, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?c=89&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sparkfun&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fungizmos.com/index.php?main_page=index&amp;cPath=68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FunGizmos&lt;/a&gt; or similar purveyor of fine hacking components.  One of the best things about these companies is they&#039;re run by tinkerers just like us, stocking the parts they like the best.  It means they&#039;re a great filter for the daunting variety of electronic parts out there.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi piboer,<br />
For the Smart LED prototypes, I got almost all my RGB LEDs from various suppliers on Ebay.  Do a search for &#8220;<a href="http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&#038;_trksid=m37&#038;satitle=rgb+led&#038;category0=" rel="nofollow">rgb led</a>&#8221; and you&#8217;ll find tons of different types.  You generally have to buy in quantities of 25 or 50, but that&#8217;s still only around $20 total.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re unsure what kind of RGB LEDs to get, check out <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?c=89" rel="nofollow">Sparkfun</a>, <a href="http://store.fungizmos.com/index.php?main_page=index&#038;cPath=68" rel="nofollow">FunGizmos</a> or similar purveyor of fine hacking components.  One of the best things about these companies is they&#8217;re run by tinkerers just like us, stocking the parts they like the best.  It means they&#8217;re a great filter for the daunting variety of electronic parts out there.</p>
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		<title>By: piboer</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49568</link>
		<dc:creator>piboer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 00:37:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49568</guid>
		<description>where did you get the RGB leds?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>where did you get the RGB leds?</p>
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		<title>By: LED sign manufacturer</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49508</link>
		<dc:creator>LED sign manufacturer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 17:02:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49508</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve got these pieces of info from Wikipedia...hope it will help

# LEDs can emit light of an intended color without the use of color filters that traditional lighting methods require. This is more efficient and can lower initial costs.
# The solid package of the LED can be designed to focus its light. Incandescent and fluorescent sources often require an external reflector to collect light and direct it in a usable manner.
# When used in applications where dimming is required, LEDs do not change their color tint as the current passing through them is lowered, unlike incandescent lamps, which turn yellow.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve got these pieces of info from Wikipedia&#8230;hope it will help</p>
<p># LEDs can emit light of an intended color without the use of color filters that traditional lighting methods require. This is more efficient and can lower initial costs.<br />
# The solid package of the LED can be designed to focus its light. Incandescent and fluorescent sources often require an external reflector to collect light and direct it in a usable manner.<br />
# When used in applications where dimming is required, LEDs do not change their color tint as the current passing through them is lowered, unlike incandescent lamps, which turn yellow.</p>
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		<title>By: Le plus petit Smart Object &#171; Club Smart &#38; Ambient</title>
		<link>http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/comment-page-2/#comment-49476</link>
		<dc:creator>Le plus petit Smart Object &#171; Club Smart &#38; Ambient</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jun 2008 20:30:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/#comment-49476</guid>
		<description>[...] http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/ [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] <a href="http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/" rel="nofollow">http://todbot.com/blog/2007/03/25/smart-led-prototypes/</a> [...]</p>
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